The mood’s high-octane glamour, hard and tense. After all, Sid Vicious’ ‘My way’ was playing on the way in. Billed as an ode to Punk, the invites had featured fishnet safety-pinned to the cardboard. Outfits were named ‘London Calling’, ‘Vicious’ and suchlike. But fear not! The models carried the numbers of their outfits on little cards as a charming nod to in-store fit models of yesteryear. The tailoring was so on point you straightaway surrender to a feeling of hopeless want. Gaultier’s latest couture show instantly dispelled any rumours of the designer having lost his magic touch. And just in case we started thinking he’d gone all bourgeois on us – as if! The traditional bridal finish was semi-diaphanous and worn by a male – although you’d be hard pushed to tell. Andrej Pejic is the latest supermodel, someone so androgynous and beautiful that he effortlessly walks for both sides as it were.
On the whole the use of colour was implemented almost as a sartorial way of cleansing your palate, quick bursts of vibrant hues, as if the intention were to underline just how perfect the black ensembles were.
Besides Andrej Pejic, actor and style icon Farida Khelfa also smouldered her way down the catwalk for Gaultier, permeating his designs with her special brand of tongue-in-cheek glamour. It appears there’s a real shift in models used, a definite return to the glamazons of yore, to the Mugler superwoman of the 80’s rather than the identikit clothes hangers of recent times. Powerful clothes needs to be shown on powerful models. The maquillage evoked Joan Crawford or Norma Desmond, red lips, Dietrich-esque cheekbones and a simmering hauteur.
In true Gaultier-style, the show ended in upbeat fashion with Psykko Tico from the legendary Crazy Horse high-kicking her way down the catwalk, displaying a fantastic trompe-l’oeil print of can-can dancing legs on the inside of her skirt.