London is known for its innovative and creative Fashion Week. People from all aspects of the industry come to London, to be inspired by new upcoming talent. Somerset House was awash with fashionable people, photographers and security. Everywhere you looked, people were dressed fabulously. Some to strut their stuff for the cameras, some running from show to show. We enjoyed the energy and creations of the shows, and would like to share our highlights.
London Fashion Week AW14 coincided with the 120-year anniversary of DAKS. The luxury label has a focus on finesse and quality, demonstrating this through both the highest calibre of workmanship and a use of the finest materials. All garments feature a colour palette of camel, vicuña and black, representing the heritage of the brand. A military theme is also used to tie the collection together, along with gold to signify the anniversary; this colour scheme was a continuation of the men’s collection, previously featured in Milan.
Knitwear is a focal point within the collection, contrasting and combining luxury materials such as cashmere and silk, with spectacular results. The show featured a large amount of accessories, particularly fur-based headwear, providing a sense of nobility. This DAKS collection was clearly inspired by their target consumer, ‘the contemporary woman who dresses with intelligence together with a tinge of irony and wit that accompanies elegance.’
In celebration of the anniversary, the show itself followed an unusual format. Projecting a backdrop broadcasting the 2014 advertising campaign, which featured music and fashion icon Paul Weller and his daughter. The projections illuminated the catwalk, creating silhouettes and shadows, which beautifully outlined the garments on show.
Eudon Choi‘s AW14 show began with a lot of screaming sounds. Inspired by the devoted fans of iconic 60s rock bands, his collection sums it up in one: Hysteria. Keywords for the silhouettes of this collection would be asymmetrical, oversized and snappy. All with his signature menswear tailoring techniques. Although it is an Autumn/Winter collection, Choi was not afraid to let colours clash. We saw bottle green, mustard and cobalt blue in combination with fiery red and warm orange. To maintain serenity (or maybe as an antidote) there was also a variation on grey and white tones.
With a deep bass pumping through the speakers, the Nasir Mazhar AW14 show started. His first womenswear catwalk show felt like an organic extension of his previous menswear shows. His signature bold polished street style this time round included some
old school hip-hop elements, such as baggy trousers and oversized blouses. All
dipped in a metallic colour, going from silver to red, to gold, back to pink.
All his garments showcased the name Nasir Mazhar. If you did not know at first whose
show you were at, he made damn sure you did.
It was raining cats and dogs at Orla Kiely for AW14. In an intimate showing space, with a park-like set, the models wandered around with umbrellas and newspapers. As we heard the rain fall, the models showed us the mostly monochrome collection. Next to those colours, the collection had pastel highlights, like soft pink and pops of lemon. The sweet and girly collection featured mostly tunics, dresses and jackets.
Belle Sauvage brought a bold and feminine collection to the catwalk for AW14. Their collection, Paris Cats after Midnight, focused on the Parisian woman during the two World War and the way they became the embodiment of a new feminine elegance. This collection was the gold digger of the catwalks this season, there was gold on the hats, on the shoes, as a print on the dress and as jewellery. On top of that there were pearls and lipsticks for all to see. The main colours were black and white with a bold pop of red. A strong and ultra feminine collection, for the woman who wants to show herself off to the world.
The A/W14 collection ISSA presented at London Fashion Week was best described as an amalgamation of print, draping and feminine silhouettes. The pieces on display showed the brand’s experimental side, and explored tailoring and outerwear through the integration of new concepts.
The driving force behind the collection is Blue Farrier, ISSA’s recently appointed creative director. Her inspirations date back to a tender age of childhood memories of an eccentric relative’s house. Forging a burgeoning fascination with art and interior design allowed her to draw influence from details such as linoleum flooring and bespoke art pieces.
ISSA has become renowned for their striking prints, a theme evident throughout the collection and one which is now complemented with the introduction of texture variation, by using materials such as flock. The colour palette consists of mainly black, red and green, infused with other warm tonal colours to compliment the quality of the luxurious materials used.
The eye-catching contrast of shapes added an extra element to the show; the combination of lightweight draping materials with stiffer, more structured garments, created spectacular results. This theme of contrast was further exaggerated by the choice of abstract prints on some designs, using bubble-gum pink floral print flock against darker winter colours.
Marina Hoermanseder made her much-anticipated debut at London Fashion Week AW14. The French-Austrian designer studied at Central Saint Martins, completing an internship at Alexander McQueen along the way. Hoermanseder’s first taste of notoriety came with her pieces for Graduate Fashion Week, which resulted in the opportunity to feature her AW14 collection at LFW’s Fashion Scout.
The collection consisted of leather corsets, moulded to bodies of models and structured by a range of leather straps and metal buckles which contrasted with the flowing fabrics, creating an oxymoron of style. The inspiration stemmed from ‘orthopaedic support apparatus, naked cats and brain structures’, a theme clearly portrayed throughout. The designs carried a muted colour palette, consisting of shades of nude and grey tied in with deeper colours such as mauve and green.
The buckles and other variations of metal fastenings give the garments a fetish feel, whilst also acting as signature look. The contrast between these details and the use of flowing elegant satin-like materials, created the perfect silhouette for the catwalk. One of the signature pieces was leg braces paired with an oversized chunky leotard; this combination clearly demonstrated the inspirations behind the designs and by using both ends of her colour palette, was the perfect example of Hoermanseder’s work.
The graphic coloured AW14 collection from KTZ featured black and white garments topped off with loud jewellery in silver and gold. Strong models stomped down the catwalk exuding confidence; they wore the collection as it should be worn. The silhouette of this collection was big and oversized alternated with more feminine lines. Although most outfits were one colour, it was far from boring; the brand uses many patterns, so you cannot stop looking at all the little details. They ended their show on a high, with only one piece totally in gold.
Photography: Rebecca Cocks, Ellen Grace Albers and Nikki Neervens
Words: Rebecca Cocks and Nikki Neervens
Design: Nikki Neervens
TagsAutumn/Winter, Ellen Grace Albers, Fashion Week, Nikki Neervens, Rebecca Cocks,