Stepping out against an amazing colourful Julie Verhoeven tableau vivant, Christopher Shannon’s models kicked off the first menswear show at the BFC Courtyard show space in style. Influenced by the realism of the 90’s, in particular Mathieu Kassovitz’s 1995 film La Haine as well as photographs from Jason Evan’s W’happen catalogue, Christopher Shannon continued his celebration of the ordinary, while also drawing on inspiration from singer Sinead O’Connor’s music and image. Instantly recognisable were the green and red tabs synonymous with the iconic footwear brand Kickers, a youth staple, with whom Shannon collaborated with this season. Just one of Shannon’s commercial ventures, one colourway of the ‘Kick Chunk‘ boot will be released at selected stockists from October 2012.
There was a strong graphic element to the collection and highlights included a bandana printed boilersuit. Logos inspired by old supermarket windows in Paris were emblazoned on nearly everything, while previous campaign imagery was reworked into bespoke prints for bomber jackets and sportswear. This extended to accessories – Shannon also explored ideas relating to the conspicuous consumption of today’s youth who leave the swing tickets on their garments as a means of asserting their disposable income and showing off their new purchases. This manifested itself in a tag-infested rucksack. Anyone who was overwhelmed by fashion week’s hectic schedule was left in no doubt as to whose show they were attending.
While Shannon stayed true to his casual aesthethic, silhouettes were sharper, and shape and fit was more developed than in other seasons. Jacquard fabrics, clean cut lines and monochrome block colour shirts added a more grown-up feel to the collection. Meanwhile his sportswear had also advanced. Adding hi-performance finishes such as laser cut pocket details and split zip hoods, Shannon showed a keen attention to detail and pushed his design process to the next level by exploring new techniques.
Christopher Shannon woz ‘ere A/W12.
Words by Lauren Brown
Images by Anne van den Boogert
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